What the estimate is built on
There is one solid anchor in the published research: field work by the Building Research Council at the University of Illinois established that an uninsulated pipe in an unconditioned space begins freezing when the outdoor temperature falls to about 20 °F (−6 °C) and stays there for roughly four to six hours. A survey of plumbers in southern states agreed from the other direction — burst-pipe callouts began when temperatures fell into the teens.
Everything the checker reports is that anchor scaled for exposure. A pipe outside the building has nothing protecting it and goes faster. A pipe inside an exterior wall is partly warmed by the room behind it. A pipe in a heated room is only at risk if the heating has failed.
That is why the output is a band. The scaling factors are reasonable, not measured for your house.
What it cannot know
Stated plainly, because a tool that hides its limits is worse than no tool:
- Wind, which matters enormously for a genuinely exposed pipe and not at all for one in insulation.
- Air leaks. A gap in the siding blowing directly onto a pipe defeats any amount of insulation around it.
- Pipe material and diameter. A narrow copper pipe freezes before a wide plastic one.
- Water movement. A pipe in use freezes far more slowly than a dormant one.
- Where the insulation is thin. Runs fail at bends and joints, which is where sleeve kits are usually left short.
- How many cold nights came before. The spaces around your pipes carry cold over from one night to the next.
Take the result as an ordering of risk rather than a countdown.
What to do at each result
| Result | Do |
|---|---|
| No risk tonight | Nothing beyond hoses off and outdoor taps drained |
| Unlikely tonight | Open cupboard doors on exterior walls. Watch a multi-night run |
| Watch it | Cupboard doors open, hold the daytime heating overnight |
| Act tonight | All of the above plus a pencil-thick trickle on the furthest tap, and find the stop tap |
Why a dripping tap works
Not for the reason most people assume. Moving water does freeze more slowly than still water, but that is the smaller half of the benefit.
The larger half is pressure. A pipe usually fails not at the ice plug but somewhere along the run, when water trapped between the growing plug and a closed tap is compressed past what the pipe can hold. An open tap gives that pressure somewhere to go, so even if a plug forms, the pipe survives.
Which means the trickle should be on the tap at the far end of the vulnerable run, and it only needs to be about the thickness of a pencil lead. The mechanism is covered in more detail in what temperature pipes freeze at, and the ordered list of everything else worth doing is in how to keep pipes from freezing.